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Buses go direct to bagan and also direct to Magwee for Mrauk U but obviously you don’t want to miss out on Bagan.
I always recommend one to stay in Naung U as opposed to Old and new bagan mainly for market and also for cheaper guest houses and restaurants I always stay Eden motel great breakfast on the roof and also reasonable prices for B&B there atre also many from market roundabout towards shwezigon temple plenty of other guest houses to choose from if full on right is shwemoe a good restauranat and closer to shwezigon is Weatherspoons if you are feeling alittle decadent after heavy Shan curries and uncooked vegetables. They do great Wienner schnitzel and also Boeuf Bourguignon + fries and burgers. There is a daily 7:30am bus direct to Naungshwe Inle plus buses direct to Magwee and Mrauk U via Ann plus buses to Paye if you want to chance the overnight bsu from there to Taungok and onto Thandwe (Ngapali beach) BUT note if you want to go to sittwe (fast boat) then day boat on to Mrauk U you might find it easier to fly Yangon to Sittwe and then back to Thandwe (with Air Bagan)
Rent a bike and follow my map :
Ok cycle or horsecart from Naung U to where road turns left to airport entrance there turn right where road bears left towards New Bagan go straight on and turn left at junction where road heads right to that awful viewing tower , cycle between the walls and on right is the temple with the best views over Bagan. After carry on that road and it meets up with the main rd just as you enter New Bagan it becomes dual carriageway on the left here is great tea Shoppe for a ley peye Bdaba with chick peas or samosas nice tea break remember the green tea is always free . then in town turn right to Old bagan and stopping temples right and left to turn right once in old bagan to Ananda there are some nice reasonable priced eating places here for lunch and after towards Naung U on left is Thali Pein for best sunset views over the Irrawaddy if too early then head for shwezigon and after head back to Thali Pein.
The market is the best place for tourist Tat at wholesale prices as opposed to the temples . great puppets also laquerware at reasonable prices and paintings etc etc.
it was a long time ago I went to stay at GH rolex but it was too scruffy even for me so I stayed around close to bus station, and 730am ready for bus to Mrauk U although an interesting site across the river at the other bus station is the Mud volcano.
In sittwe I stayed at Palace hotel with good restaurant ‘Riverview’ next door great king prawns in batter with French fries.
In Mrauk U I stayed close to town at waddyu htut Gh tel : 043: 24200-50240 and ate in maket also Mo Cherrys has a good reputation if not a little expensive.
Ngapali beach I only ever stayed in Lyn Thar OO and last time they hasd sold part of it to memento resort but most of the cheaper second row backpacker bungalows had been torn down for for beach side family rooms with sat Tv etc etc etc. My last time was $8 B&B but can’t see you getting a single for anywhere near that now(more like $50 per room ) and if you turn left out of main gate first restaurant on left and one opposite were my favourites.
As said the obver night buses go direct to yangon via Gwa but take the VIP one as you get reclining seats and also free meal on the way.
Chaungtha beach & Pathein.
When you arrive usually around 5am at O Mingalar bus terminus you can take taxi driect to western bus terminus anbout 14 kms away across the river costs around $8 -$12 dependent how good you can bargain. If you stya overnight in yangon then just walk past the taxis and take local bus GREEN 43 = it looks like 4 ? mark wrong way and 3 question mark right way to Sukle pagoda and traders Hotel 300kyat as opposed to $12 for taxi .
If going to the bus terminus for Pathein and Chaungtha from tow there is a number 2 goes direct but you will need to leave very early ie 5am but also useful j or 2 is great getting back into Yangon from Western bus terminus.
As the bus arrives onChaunttha beach opposite is Shwe hin Tha beach hotel tel: 042-42118 095200617 email: info@shwehinthahotel.com shared with German guy on bus fortwo days som as the room wass $28 single full board we got $35 for two, twin room on the beach 2 nights and along the road is great restaurant for good food now called Shwe Ya minn tel 95-42-42126 it also has cheaper rooms for singles ie around $12-$15 B&B But its a walk to the beach .
In Pathein great restaurant opposite the bank and a couple of hotels but the one I stayed turned out to be a brothel $12 whereas locals paid $2 to include two prostitutes for the night. Having never been with a prostitute in all my life I did not feel that hard done by lol.
Take the 6:30am train direct to Moulmien from Yangon at last count foreigners had to pay in $’s cash ord calss $7 the 7:30 train is packed and also older stock whereas the 6:30 one has newer chinese carraiges. If you intend to leave via Kawthuing to Thai border in sth thenmaybe do Golden rock first then Hpa and anjd then Moulmein If you are leaving via Hpa an through to Myrwaddy the leave Hpa an till last.

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